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Jeff Brock and Richard Crisman, the hoteliers and life companions whose native properties embrace the Sparrows Lodge and Vacation Home, opened the restaurant in April 2021 as an homage to Sir Cecil Beaton, the famously flamboyant British photographer, designer, creator and all-around Renaissance man who died in 1980 4 days after his 76th birthday. A photograph of Beaton, his wide-brimmed hat cocked at a rakish angle, hangs over the bar, its oak cabinets lined with gin bottles, classic glassware, framed sketches and pictures plus thick books on meals and vogue. An enormous a part of the restaurant’s enchantment is govt chef and companion Gabriel Woo’s synthesis of kinds — a sophisticated mixture of Continental swagger, global-minded modernism and California realness. A route of caviar-studded deviled eggs, shrimp cocktail and steak frites is as satisfying as mussels in Thai-inspired purple curry adopted by a smoked pork chop or a bowl of cacio e pepe. The martinis are chilly and potent, as Beaton most well-liked them.
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