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It was once that Northern Michigan — the time period used to explain the northernmost part of the Nice Lakes State’s Decrease Peninsula in addition to all of its Higher Peninsula — was a summertime escape identified solely to Midwesterners. On the flip of the final century, metropolis people from Cincinnati, Fort Wayne, Chicago, or Detroit would journey by steamer, prepare, or Mannequin T to seasonal cabins perched alongside small inland lakes and huge Nice Lakes alike. For generations, these “resorters,” as they had been referred to as, had this attractive stretch of nation all to themselves. Except one had a university roommate who was from this particular a part of the world or a coworker who acquired married right here, this distant area has been a comparatively low-traffic summertime playground for these within the know, and the locals and Natives who got here lengthy earlier than them.
However simply as components of Northern Michigan have slowly and quietly developed into world-class locations in newer years, so too have the occasions of 12 months to go to expanded — with the area’s “peak season” deservingly extending into fall. Whereas it may be time to commerce in these swimsuits and sand toys for turtle necks and fingerless mitts, from late September to mid-October there isn’t any extra scenic place within the Midwest to get pleasure from a fall colour tour than the Mitten itself. With a backdrop of limitless vistas of both Lake Michigan or Lake Superior, we’ve outlined 5 routes with choices for consuming and consuming which are each bit as worthy as these yellow, orange, and crimson leaves themselves.
What’s Northern Michigan delicacies?
“What’s Northern Michigan delicacies,” you marvel? Properly that’s a rattling good query — and it is determined by who you ask. For too lengthy, Northern Michigan didn’t have an independently outlined culinary canon. It was hearty steak-and-potatoes Midwestern fare, with perhaps a pasty (the hand held miner’s lunch), a couple of fried perch sandwiches, and all-things-cherry thrown within the combine. That is, in any case, cherry nation — with greater than two-thirds of the nation’s tart cherries coming from the orchards surrounding Traverse Metropolis. That implies that most menus have historically included a cherry rooster salad, a pork chop with some type of cherry discount drizzled on high, or cherry pie — a lot cherry pie.
However Northern Michigan is extra than simply cherry nation. It’s additionally apple nation and grape nation — and residential to the Midwest’s two most revered winemaking American Viticultural Areas (AVA). The waters of Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, and Lake Superior make Northern Michigan whitefish nation as nicely, with loads of walleye, perch, lake trout, pike, and smelt on provide too. There are the roadside farm stands — picturesque, bucolic stalls promoting the eggs of 1 yard farmer, the tomatoes of one other, the pumpkins of a 3rd. With hearty Midwestern soil, a considerably cooler local weather, and quick access to a lot contemporary water, a noteworthy variety of farmers and winemakers have relocated to Northern Michigan lately, and clever cooks are taking observe. The area’s greatest eating places are being attentive to their sourcing, and redefining what Northern Michigan delicacies means alongside the best way.
![Lake of the Clouds, Porcupine Mountains in Fall Color, Upper Michigan Peninsula.](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/sLG-az5wq698RGbxEd4PP_NVz-c=/0x0:8160x6127/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:8160x6127):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24937217/GettyImages_623319984.jpg)
Key phrases for fall colour cruisers
As a way to keep away from being outed as “a fudgie,” it is advisable know what this and some different regional phrases imply.
forty fifth parallel: the latitude line that circles the globe midway between the equator and the north pole, and crosses by means of Michigan’s wine area in addition to the Champagne area of France
Huge Lake vs. Little Lake: the phrases used to make clear whether or not one goes to fish, swim, or in any other case recreate on the closest Nice Lake or the closest inland lake
Gitche Gumee: an Ojibwe term which means “large sea” or “large water,” and a reputation for Lake Superior nonetheless in use right this moment.
Fudgie: Northern Michigan nomenclature for a vacationer, drawing upon the huge variety of fudge retailers that mentioned guests appear to frequent
Mackinac vs. Mackinaw: Mackinac is the spelling of the bridge and the island. Mackinaw is the spelling of the town. All are pronounced the identical means, Mackinaw. We didn’t make the foundations.
Mama Lake or Huge Blue: beloved nicknames for Lake Michigan
The Mighty Mac: This isn’t a quick meals order, however the longest suspension bridge within the Western hemisphere, connecting Michigan’s Decrease and Higher peninsulas since 1957.
The Straights: Nope, locals are usually not referring to a storage rock revival band. The Straights is the stretch of water that connects Lake Michigan to Lake Huron, underneath the Mighty Mac.
Up North: A vacation spot anywhere north of, say, Cadillac, counts as having gone “Up North” for the weekend.
Yooper: Rooted within the U.P. acronym, a yooper is anybody from or in any other case native to Michigan’s Higher Peninsula.
5 routes for consuming, consuming, and leaf peeping
You realize these black and white stickers you see on the backs of so many Detroit and Chicago automobiles? M-22. M-26. M-119. These are roads in Northern Michigan, dwelling not solely to a few of the most stunning fall colours within the Midwest, however every with thrilling choices for consuming and consuming as nicely. Listed below are 5 fall colour routes we’ve constructed particularly for meals lovers.
Route 1: Copper Nation in all of its copper-colored splendor
The Keweenaw Peninsula, which juts straight up into Lake Superior on the high of the U.P., was dwelling to the nation’s copper mining growth within the mid 1800s. At present, it’s tourism that rightly dominates this attractive stretch of the state. Hop on U.S. Route 41 out of Calumet and make your means northeast by means of Phoenix to Copper Harbor, a stretch of highway that was Michigan’s first national scenic byway. From Copper Harbor head west to Brockway Mountain Drive, a mountain biker’s paradise that’s the highest level above sea stage between the Allegheny and Rocky mountains. After climbing down out of the clouds, proceed southwest on M-26 to the hamlet of Eagle River, dwelling to an distinctive Copper Nation restaurant.
Brickside Brewery
Positioned on the far finish of city a couple of blocks up from the harbor, this wee brewery optimizes the unique notion of a small neighborhood microbrewery. Equal components brewer, bartender, tablemaker, and labelmaker, proprietor Jason Robinson has been writing accessible beers on the chalkboard above his faucets since 2012. Order a pint of the Wonderful Day pale ale and play a spherical of Jenga, signing your title with a sharpie onto a wood block.
Fitzgerald’s
With sundown views overlooking Lake Superior, barbecue, and a strong whiskey program, “the Fitz,” as it’s identified, is all people’s favourite. Nab a reservation — not only for dinner but for the night. Whereas the constructing is an unassuming Fifties-era motor lodge, proprietor Mike LaMotte spent the pandemic reworking the inside to accommodate six attractive, one-bedroom king suites, every with patios or balconies overlooking the water.
Jampot
On the 90-degree bend within the highway subsequent to Jacob’s Falls is without doubt one of the Keweenaw’s most visited, and photogenic, culinary locations — a jam and preserves store that helps the Byzantine Catholic Monastery. Seize a couple of baked items for breakfast, however don’t miss the monk-made thimbleberry jam, which celebrates the raspberry-like berry that grows wild this far north. At $72 for 3 jars, that is one edible memento it would be best to hold for your self.
Jamsen’s Fish Market and Bakery
The signal that hangs over the door at Jamsen’s merely says “fish market,” however locals know to go to Jamsen’s for its baked items. Seize a picnic desk overlooking Copper Harbor, and order the bilberry turnover; the cheddar, bacon, and chive scone; or a vanilla thimbleberry donut.
Keweenaw Coffee Works
Keweenaw Espresso Works is a pillar of Calumet, with espresso that’s each bit pretty much as good as its dedication to group. Roaster Nate Shuttleworth was born in England and raised in Australia earlier than transferring stateside. A classically educated chef, he left eating places in Chicago and California to start his chapter in espresso. Shuttleworth roasts single-origin beans from Guatemala, Ethiopia, and past, giving them names that remember life proper right here at dwelling. Suppose: Borealis, North Woods, and the Straights.
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Route 2: The bluffs and bridges of Marquette’s Huron Mountains
With spectacular mining-era structure and a burgeoning meals scene, Marquette is definitely considered one of Michigan’s favourite cities up north. Utilizing this architecturally wealthy port city and its photogenic Ore Dock as a jumping-off level, guests can create a fall colour circle tour by touring north after which south once more. Hop on County Highway 550 in the direction of Huge Bay (one-time retreat for Henry Ford) after which loop again to Marquette by the use of County Highway 510. On the return journey, you’ll cross the Useless River subsequent to a historic metal bridge, the place you — and seemingly everybody else who’s out for a Sunday drive — can snap that household picture you’ve been wanting.
231 West
Awake earlier than the remainder of your group? Make a beeline to 231 West, a patisserie and low store with attractive laminated pastries. Order a espresso from Ishpeming’s Velodrome, a ache au chocolat, spinach artichoke danish, or croissant with ham and gruyere, and settle into this contemporary cafe’s dependable Wi-Fi to resolve the day’s Wordle. Bonus: While you’re there, make sure you examine the schedule for the cafe’s meals truck, Dia de los Tacos.
Barrel + Beam and Northwoods Test Kitchen
Beloved by beer aficionados for its complicated, Belgian-style farmhouse ales, Barrel + Beam is a Michigan treasure. Collectively together with his spouse Marina Dupler, Nick VanCourt — an Higher Peninsula native — bought a dilapidated roadside supper membership in 2016. After an in depth transform it is without doubt one of the hippest log cabins round for sipping suds. Don’t miss the kriek, brewed with Michigan cherries, and the duo’s not too long ago added menu of snacks and soups.
Bodega
Whereas many guests frequent the eating places in Marquette’s historic downtown close to the intersections of Entrance and Washington and the historic Landmark Inn, locals know to additionally hit the Third Avenue neighborhood, dwelling to Bodega. It’s open all day, and the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus begin by thanking native farmers and fisheries, together with Marquette’s personal Thill’s & Sons Fish House. Breakfast is offered all day, so that is the place for brunch.
Steinhaus
There may be maybe no extra appropriate fare for a fall tour than meals that’s harking back to Oktoberfest. Make a reservation at this petite, fashionable Bavarian restaurant and order the jägerschnitzel with spaetzle and braised pink cabbage or the wurst platter with bratwurst, käsewurst, sauerkraut, and caramelized onions. Both means, make sure you splurge on that bierstein memento.
The Delft Bistro
Dinner and a film? Sure, please. Housed in Marquette’s historic movie show, the Delft is simply plain enjoyable, with a strong seasonal menu in addition. This fall, order the salad with blue cheese crumbles, Granny Smith apples, and maple-glazed walnuts, alongside a cocktail made utilizing Ann Arbor Distilling’s fall gin and acorn squash easy syrup, whereas taking in a scene or two from no matter childhood flick that’s on show on the massive display screen.
Zephyr Wine Bar
Operated by the identical of us who personal Marquette’s Everyday Wines — probably the most well-curated wine and (now) cheese retailers in Northern Michigan — Zephyr Wine Bar is a gem.
Whether or not you’ve been desirous to strive a Greek Agiorgitiko or a tannat from Uruguay, the spot’s encyclopedic checklist of wines by the glass is uncommon this far north, the place distribution is difficult. Zephyr properly offers ink to the rising class of nonalcoholic wines as nicely.
![Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in the fall with leaves changing colors.](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/nQX_UK6aM38RzhiWNne095Tmxdc=/0x0:5489x3660/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:5489x3660):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24962254/GettyImages_1271223486.jpg)
Route 3: Cliffside colour alongside the Pictured Rocks Nationwide Lakeshore
Most individuals solely blow by means of the very modest city of Munising on their method to Pictured Rocks, however a couple of long-standing locals are working arduous to alter that. From downtown Munising, protected against ferocious Lake Superior by Grand Island, take Freeway 58 east out of city. With cliffside vistas of Lake Superior’s southern shoreline, the stretch of highway that meanders by means of the Nationwide Lakeshore close to Grand Marais is particularly scenic within the fall. Cease for a picnic lunch earlier than doubling again for as a lot whitefish as you’ll be able to eat.
By George Brewing Co.
George Shultz, the George for whom this native brewery is called, was born and raised in Munising and was, for a few years, the city pharmacist. At present he’s placing the scientific methodology to good use brewing suds such because the Strolling With Giants Apricot Blonde or, the autumn Schultzbier — a malty, Märzen Oktoberfest.
Cap’n Ron’s
There are a few totally different meals vehicles on the north finish of city for (white)fish and chips, however Cap’n Ron’s is the OG — made well-known when the late Ronald “Captain Ron” Matson, Jr. appeared on an episode of Gordon Ramsey’s Uncharted. Linked with Matson’s Fisheries, a tribal fishery since 1898, there isn’t any extra storied place than Munising to strive the contemporary coast tackle this British pub basic.
Cooking Carberry’s Wood-Fired Pizza
Positioned at East Channel Brewing and run by three Carberry sisters and their households, the person, thin-crust pizzas popping out of this wood-fired oven are legit. Adventurous sorts must a minimum of have the ability to say they’ve tried the pizzeria’s beloved blueberry pizza, which comes with blue cheese, ham, bacon, onions, sure — blueberries, and late-night bragging rights.
Miners Pasty Kitchen
You may’t go to the U.P. with out attempting a pasty. In Munising, most vacationers go to Muldoons, however locals know to frequent Miners. Cease in proper when the doorways are unlocked and order a Yooper to go. It’s a basic pasty, made with beef and rutabaga, that chef John Flanders (of the late Johnny Canine) is making utilizing a recipe from the proprietor’s grandmother. Pull off of Freeway 58 for a picnic at Twelvemile Seashore and eat your pasty as meant.
The Dream Bean Machine
Want a pick-me-up in Grand Marais earlier than journeying again by means of the Nationwide Lakeshore to Munising? Seize a jolt of caffeine from this lovely, restored pink and white Volkswagen van, which will probably be parked throughout the road from the Woodland Park Campground till the second Sunday in October.
Tacopotamus
We all know what you’re pondering — you’d slightly assist a Mexican-owned taco joint as a substitute of 1 that’s run by Munising’s greatest (albeit decidedly not Mexican) chef, Jason Biega of Tracey’s fame. The factor is, you’ll be able to’t be this near Lake Superior and never have a whitefish taco. Served on a white corn tortilla with poblano crema, a beneficiant pinch of cilantro, and a squeeze of lime, that is contemporary, beer-battered whitefish from VanLandschoots and Sons fishery.
Tracey’s at Roam Inn
For years, components reminiscent of birch syrup and native bison sausage made Tracey’s restaurant the one Munising institution that meals lovers wanted to find out about. Because of the workforce behind the Roam Inn, the place this eating vacation spot is housed, which may be on the point of shifting. This group not too long ago invested in a handful of space eateries, together with the enduring Brownstone Inn west of city past Au Prepare. Book a room at the Roam Inn and make a dinner reservation at chef Biega’s Tracey’s. Served in a vivid, wood-paneled eating room that seems like you’re in a superb good friend’s dwelling, that is a few of the most seasonal and considerate superb eating within the Higher Peninsula, and a restaurant that Detroit chef James Rigato frequents on his method to his U.P. cabin.
![Ranked among the most scenic roads in the nation, the Tunnel of Trees is especially breathtaking in spring tour when trilliums carpet the forest floor bordering the road and on an autumn tour when the hardwoods are aflame in brilliant fall leaves colors.](https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/HMohycxunhyl5zWWprYXIltObaA=/0x0:4500x3000/1200x0/filters:focal(0x0:4500x3000):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24962214/GettyImages_1414364979.jpg)
Route 4: M-119 and the Tunnel of Timber
Seemingly each leaf-peeping route within the Midwest features a tunnel of bushes, however the stretch of M-119 between Harbor Springs and Cross Village is affectionately generally known as the Tunnel of Timber — a marked heritage route by the identical title. The title and associated signage is justified. This curvy, sometimes-one-lane drive hugging Lake Michigan simply north of Little Traverse Bay is pretty much as good because it will get for fall colour. And whereas fall foliage excursions alongside this route are nothing new, there are a handful of recent meals and beverage entrants alongside the best way that (along with generations-old faves) make this vacation spot price revisiting. Book a rental from Great Lakes Modern and settle in for some time.
American Spoon
For many years, American Spoon has been the preserves prince of Michigan. Whereas most individuals frequent the corporate’s flagship Petoskey location, its outpost in Harbor Springs — conveniently positioned on the foot of the Tunnel of Timber — may be probably the most lovely of its retailers. This fall, cease in for something from the Harvest Assortment, which incorporates Bartlett pear preserves, pumpkin butter, and roasted tomatillo salsa. Don’t neglect to seize an additional jar to thank whoever’s feeding that goldfish again dwelling.
Good Hart General Store
Positioned midway between Harbor Springs and Cross Village within the city of Good Hart is a 1934 basic retailer that has not modified a factor in a long time. While you’re this cute, that’s a superb factor. Half put up workplace, half grocery retailer, half bakery, and half actual property workplace, this classic gem can also be notable for its rooster pot pies, which might be bought contemporary or frozen.
Legs Inn
Nonetheless owned and operated by the unique household, this spectacular log cabin constructed by Odawa Indians within the Thirties and accompanying Polish restaurant in Cross Village is a Northern Michigan establishment. Wait your flip (no reservations allowed) for some pierogi, gołąbki, or a warming bowl of bigos — a hunter’s stew made with sauerkraut, cabbage, Polish sausage, and mushrooms.
Little Juice
Opened in 2022, this espresso and juice bar is a welcome addition to an already charming Harbor Springs lineup. Earlier than setting out for M-119, seize an acai bowl, cold-pressed juice, or smoothie. Named for a neighborhood music pageant up in Cross Village, the Bliss Fest is a mix of almond butter, kale, coconut, spinach, banana, dates, nut milk, and all types of different goodness.
Petoskey Brewing at Cross Village
Is the wait on the Legs Inn longer than you’d like? Put your title in, and head throughout the road to Petoskey Brewing’s model new satellite tv for pc campus, which simply opened this summer season. There may be an Oktoberfest on faucet this fall, in addition to the low-alcohol 1898 Lager, which is harking back to that bygone period of the resorters who got here by prepare.
Pond Hill Farm
If proprietor Jimmy Spencer may solely develop one crop, it’d simply be pumpkins, American Spoon’s Noah Rashid not too long ago shared with Eater. Wanna check the speculation? Hit Pond Hill Farm throughout an autumn Saturday or Sunday. Each weekend in late September and early October, this beloved vacation spot hosts a Fall Fest that features hay rides, brick-oven pizza, cider donuts, and a wine-tasting tent. As if that wasn’t sufficient, Pond Hill has the quantity nob turned up this 12 months with a brand new dwell music stage and the debut of cannons that shoot apples into the woods.
The New York
Longtime readers don’t have to be advised that Stafford’s Pier is a good waterfront choice, however those that have arrange camp in Harbor Springs for the weekend also needs to take a look at the New York. If “Harbor Springs stylish” was a nationally acknowledged design type, this eating room would outline it. Served amidst emerald inexperienced partitions, Tiffany lamp pendants, and white tablecloths, that is the place you go to see and be seen consuming that completely executed wagyu strip.
Trillium Woods Coffee
Those that choose to sleep underneath the leaves can thank Trillium Woods Espresso for bringing an enthralling little espresso cease to the northern woods. Housed in a wee log cabin simply south of the overall retailer, vistors craving their pumpkin spice latte won’t ever discover a extra charming place to sip one.
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Route 5: Autumn within the Land of Delight
Meals-loving vacationers already find out about Leelanau County’s Farm Membership, Wren, and Riverside Inn from Eater’s roundups of Essential Traverse City Restaurants and favourite Waterfront Restaurants, however these three very worthy stops are just some of the various locations to go to when fall colour viewing within the Land of Delight, a beloved nickname for this peninsula that’s rooted within the area’s Native historical past. Leelanau means “delight of life” in Ojibwe. As if being dwelling to the seashores and bluffs of Sleeping Bear Dunes Nationwide Lakeshore wasn’t sufficient, Leelanau County is wine nation, cherry nation, and farm nation. An autumnal circle tour of M-22 and the bucolic cities it meanders by means of must be on any globetrotter’s bucket checklist.
Art’s Tavern
With its classic neon signal and school pennants from across the nation, this decades-old watering gap on the nook of M-22 and Lake Avenue is a Glen Arbor establishment. Tuck right into a sales space and order the fried smelt, the burger with tots, or, if it’s a Wednesday, a bowl of rooster jalapeno soup and a pint of suds. Simply don’t neglect to deliver a bit inexperienced. Artwork’s is cash-only.
Carlson’s Fish
Image-perfect Leland sits in an isthmus between Lake Michigan and north Lake Leelanau. There’s a charming essential drag with a handful of noteworthy retailers, however historic Fishtown is the place all of it started. Housed in a classic fishing shanty, there isn’t any higher place to get a style of Leland’s industrial fishing roots than Carlson’s, which smokes lake trout and whitefish on web site, and now boasts a wall of tinned fish and different snacks to spherical out your picnic.
Dune Bird Winery
Along with Previous Mission Peninsula, Leelanau County is probably the most revered wine area within the Midwest. Boasting grape vines first planted greater than half a century in the past, winemakers from Napa, Oregon, South Africa, and past have moved to Northern Michigan lately to start bottling riesling, gewurztraminer, blaufrankisch, and different chilly climate grapes. Leaf peepers circumnavigating the county on M-22 ought to a minimum of pull into Dune Chook. The fashionable, Scandinavian-style tasting room is a good place to whereas away a day. Don’t miss: There may be an espresso machine for the designated driver.
Gilcrest Farm Winery
Additionally new on the scene is Gilcrest Farm Vineyard, which simply opened a well-appointed Suttons Bay tasting room in August 2023. Oenophiles may take a web page from the bachelorette sorts and construct a whole journey round visiting Leelanau County’s greatest tasting rooms, however these sticking closest to M-22 ought to a minimum of make sure you add this new entrant to their checklist of stops. Order the chardonnay flight, the place you’ll be able to style considered one of “the massive six” three other ways — oaked, unoaked, and glowing.
New Bohemian Cafe
Most visitors hungry for a sandwich hit the Village Cheese Shanty in Leland, however don’t neglect about New Bohemian Cafe in Northport, a household cease on the route’s northernmost level. The LBC, which stands for Leelanau Beef and Cheddar, is all the things you’ve ever needed between two items of ciabatta — sliced beef, spicy habanero cheddar, candy caramelized onion jam, and napa cabbage slaw. One of the best. Full cease.
Suttons Bay Ciders
Perched on the best bluff alongside aptly named Hilltop Highway, Suttons Bay Ciders provides among the finest views in Leelanau County. And what higher factor to drink throughout an autumn go to than crisp, arduous cider? Order the Cherry Fest, also referred to as the Don Cherrya mix of native apples and a not-too-sweet smidge of cherry juice. It screams Michigan Fruit Belt.
The Mill
The hospitality and design workforce behind the Riverside Inn and Millie’s Pizza and Ice Cream debuted their most enjoyable challenge but in 2023 — the Mill, a shocking and absolutely refurbished grain mill set alongside the Crystal River. Order a cortado and the spot’s seasonal choice of savory hand pie and hold your eye out for forthcoming pop-up dinners on the astounding property’s underground Supper Membership, which can debut as a restaurant very quickly. Vacationers tip: The Mill also rents out a few guest rooms.
Yard & Lake
Whereas guests to Northport could know Yard & Lake as a spot to purchase kitschy garden chairs, domestically made jewellery, and different tasteful Recent Coast souvenirs, the evolving multifaceted enterprise positioned contained in the previous Lieb’s Service Station location added well-crafted tacos and cocktails to its lineup in 2023. House owners Shawn Santo and Kevin Borsay (who additionally function Detroit’s Stella Good Espresso) properly employed Traverse Metropolis’s Roman Albaugh to design the cocktail program for this lined but open-air house. Don’t resist Albaugh’s Y&L margarita. You’re welcome.
Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year meals, beverage, and journey author. She was raised within the agriculture business, which introduced her to the tiny cities and tables of greater than 35 nations earlier than settling in New York Metropolis, Denver, and–most not too long ago–proper again at dwelling in Northern Michigan. Her work has appeared in Meals & Wine, Saveur, Journey + Leisure, Midwest Residing, and Traverse journal—for whom she pens two common columns.
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